THE LAST TOURIST - After Thomas Coryat (1577–1617)
Robin Hunt walked across some of Europe in the spring and summer 2007. In 2010 and 2011 he returned to finish the route, the poor man's Grand Tour: here's travel, cities, the country, art, love, literature, mirrors and printing presses. The Old Europe of 1608, the confused New Europe and much in between. The End (of the writing) is in sight...
Wednesday 23 May 2007
Clermont: Quite Quiet
Tim Moore sped through in his Rolls Royce, Tom Coryat found them mean and ignoble, but I like the places between Amiens and Paris.
They do not have major tour attractions, though in the country nearby there is horseriding, country club and golf, flights over Picardie - the brochures tell me.
I connect instead with the small high street: Clermont is built on a hill, the Church of St. Samson highest up, closest to God. From the church the view is down a narrow street, banks first, then the biblioteque, bakers, butchers, even a fancy kitchen shop with etiolated aluminium chairs.
There is no obvious destination for the Burgher-Roi the town chieftans, to hang out, though the two competing terrace cafes do good business all day.
As in Breteuil the white flag has not been raised to pedestrianisation; few 4x4 invaders are to be seen.
Foch, Petain, Clemenceau - their accents to come when a keyboard loves me - and the American general Pershing got together here, though I am more taken with the thought that St. Samson was reconsecrated in 1502 by a member of the Villers d'Isle Adam family: neqrly 400 years later one of the flock scandalized Paris with his Cruel Tales.
Clermont just is: Pirates of that Place at the cinema, a lovely wood-panelled library, a lot of kids - what else to do? - and not a hint of unfriendliness.
At eight thirty in the evening the centre is utterly silent.
As I take this photograph an elderly lady with a Tintin dog calls me over. “I didn’t like her, she had nothing to say. But she was a candidate. For the Presidency of France. They don’t respect politics any more. It doesn’t mean anything. But this? She is not a clown, Royale."
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